The History of Bokor Mountain
Before Bokor became a colonial hill station, it was a mountain of local names, warnings, and stories: visible from Kampot, but still outside the world the French thought they understood.
Bokor Mountain
A high 1,000-metre plateau of mist, historic French ruins, royal retreats, and panoramic views above the Gulf of Thailand.
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View on Map Where the Clouds Turn
Rising 1,000 metres above the Gulf of Thailand, Bokor Mountain (Phnom Bokor) is a high plateau of mist, historic ruins, and cool forest air. Long before French engineers built on the mountain, Khmers called the peak Popok-Vil (“Where the Clouds Turn”), named for the sea mist that rolls off the coast and circles the summit. During early regional conflicts, the isolated plateau also served as a highland refuge.
The Convict Road and the Palace Hotel
In 1917, French Resident Superior François-Marius Baudoin began developing Bokor as a mountain health station where colonists could escape the heat of the plains.
Between 1917 and 1919, a workforce of 800 to 1,000 prisoners cut a 30-kilometre switchback road up through the jungle. On February 14, 1925, the French administration inaugurated Le Bokor Palace Hotel. The building was grand, cold, and expensive. Guests wore heavy wool clothing in the evening, and heavy mountain rains washed out access roads so frequently that the original operating company went bankrupt within five years.
Kings, Monks, and War
The mountain also became a royal retreat and sacred site:
- King Monivong built a royal residence and commissioned Wat Sampov Pram (“Monastery of Five Boats”) on the cliff edge in 1924. He died on the mountain in 1941.
- In 1929, the Queen Mother sent 150 Buddha statues from Phnom Penh to be entombed in a pyramid on the plateau, establishing Bokor as a sacred Buddhist mountain.
- In 1962, King Norodom Sihanouk revived the hill station, adding a casino and filming his movie Rose of Bokor on location.
That resort era ended when the Khmer Rouge seized the plateau in 1972. They turned the 1920s Catholic church on the cliff edge into a fortified military stronghold, holding the mountain through two decades of fighting into the early 1990s. The church’s stone walls still show the bullet scars from those conflicts.
By the early 2000s, the military garrison had left and the plateau stood completely abandoned. For nearly a decade, Bokor became a famous ghost town of decaying colonial ruins. It drew urban explorers and film directors, serving as the eerie backdrop for Matt Dillon’s crime thriller City of Ghosts (2002) and the South Korean horror film R-Point (2004), before modern redevelopment began. For the complete story, read our in-depth article on the history of Bokor Hill Station.
Sights on Bokor Mountain
The 30km drive from the park entrance gate to the plateau climbs through jungle road, where the mountain air turns noticeably colder and mist frequently covers the summit.
Statue of Lok Yeay Mao
A 29-metre monument standing at the plateau’s edge. She is the spirit guardian of sailors, fishermen, and travelers along the coast. For her legend, see our guide to Lok Yeay Mao.
Le Bokor Palace Hotel
The Bokor Palace Hotel was the centerpiece of French colonial rule in Kampot. It entertained celebrities and royalty for almost 50 years, before succumbing to the wars that left it in ruins. Today, it’s been rebuilt once again.
The Old Catholic Church
The Old Catholic Church is a ruined 1920s stone church sitting directly on the cliff edge. It was the site of intense fighting during the civil war in the 1980s and 1990s.
Wat Sampov Pram Monastery
Wat Sampov Pram Monastery is a historic Buddhist temple named for five boat-shaped rocks, offering sweeping views across the coast toward Phu Quoc Island. It’s also the tomb of Cambodian King Monivong.
The Black Palace (Damnak Sla Khmao)
The Black Palace contains the brick and wooden ruins of King Sihanouk’s 1960s summer residence.
Popokvil Waterfall
Popokvil Waterfall is a two-tiered waterfall on the plateau that reaches full flow during the wet season.
Practical Visitor Tips: Weather & Getting There
- Weather and Clothing: Temperatures on the plateau drop sharply compared to the coast and can feel unexpectedly cold, especially when fog or rain rolls in. Pack a light jacket or extra layer.
- Getting There: The entrance gate to Bokor National Park is 9km from downtown Kampot. A well-paved 30km road leads from the gate to the plateau.
- Transport Options: Confident riders can hire a motorbike in Kampot. For a more relaxed trip with historical context, hire a local tuk-tuk driver or join a guided day tour.
- Time Needed: Allow 4 to 6 hours for a full round trip and enough time to visit the sites.
Kampot, as locals see it.
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Further reading
The Giant Statue on Bokor Mountain: Who Is Lok Yeay Mao?
The giant statue on Bokor Mountain has a name: Lok Yeay Mao, Kampot's guardian spirit. Her legends, shrines, and why she still watches over travellers today.
Where to Eat in Kampot: Best Breakfast, Restaurants, and Street Food
A local tour guide's favorite places to eat in Kampot, from the best breakfast spots and Khmer seafood to international restaurants and street food at Kampot Food Street.
Things Worth Knowing
Should I tip my tuk-tuk driver?
If you've negotiated a price with a tuk-tuk driver, you can consider that tip included. However, if you're using an app like PassApp or Grab, be aware those prices are competitive, commissioned, and not very profitable for the drivers. A generous tip on the already small fee will probably be appreciated and help out a lot.